Mexican Zapotec rugs, blankets and weaving history
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From descriptions of
the valley surroundings and its peoples written by the Spanish
during the 1580s, we also know that Teotitlán and Brother
Rock was an important pilgrimage site where local indigenous priests
made sacrifices; however, this early source does not mention textile
production. On the other hand, many in Teotitlán, Santa
Ana, and San Miguel take great pride in describing how the Spanish
introduced the looms and the knowledge and skills necessary for
using them in the mid-16th century. Local story has it that Bishop
López de Zarate, the first Bishop of Oaxaca, introduced
the Spanish style treadle loom, an upright European loom developed
in the 13th Century, to the inhabitants of Teotitlán; and
taught them how to card, spin, dye, and weave using the Spanish
style looms. Such is the oral history surrounding the origin of
woolen textile production in Teotitlán.
Better knowledge of Zapotec textile production comes from the late 19th and early
20th centuries. We know that during this period Zapotec textiles
from Teotitlán, Santa Ana, and another nearby community,
Diaz Ordaz, were sold throughout southern Mexico. Merchants and
long distance traders from Teotitlán, for example, transported
the textiles by muleteer. They purchased textiles from weavers
who gathered in front of Teotitlán's municipal building
and then took the textiles not only to market in nearby towns,
but also far up into the mountains of the Sierra and down to the
coast and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. An understanding of these
historical features of textile production in Teotitlán,
Santa Ana, and San Miguel enables a clearer picture of how Zapotec
textile production and marketing today developed from a rich history.
One can clearly see, for example, that contrary to popular
conception; Zapotec textiles may never have been purchased directly from those
who weave them. For at least as long as Teotitlán has been
Teotitlán, the Zapotec textiles made there have most typically
been taken to market and bartered with or sold by merchants and
long distance traders from below ‘Brother Rock’. It
follows that, in spite of our desire to meet with and get to know
the artisans who make Zapotec textiles, the most authentic buying
experience would be to purchase a textile from a merchant or trader
from a Zapotec community. Today many merchants from Teotitlán
and Santa Ana have stalls in most of the market towns in the Oaxaca
Valley; and store fronts in Teotitlán, Santa Ana, and Oaxaca
City, even as far away as Tijuana.
Given the multiple hands through
which Zapotec textiles and the wool used to make them pass, it
should come as no surprise that popular conceptions of single families
and craftsmen producing textiles in their household workshops are
also less than accurate. In truth, today in Teotitlán, Santa
Ana and San Miguel, Zapotec textiles are made in many family workshops
that are interconnected through a large system of subcontracting
between different families and villages. Most typically, the same
merchants and long distance traders from Teotitlán and Santa
Ana who sell the textiles on many occasions, also provide dyed
yarn and a design to weavers who make the textiles in their own
homes. Weavers are then contractually obligated to sell the textile
back to the merchant at an agreed upon price. This arrangement
developed historically from the pattern described above, where
merchants and traders returned from selling textiles in the Sierra
and Isthmus with their muleteers loaded down with wool, yarn, and
other products from that region. Merchants and traders then typically
resold wool and yarn they purchased in their travels to weavers.
Zapotec Mexican rugs blankets weaving history -
page 3
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